It wasn’t that long ago that I wrote an article for this very magazine about a surge in vodkas with character – by which I actually meant flavour.  

I’m not talking salted caramel, vanilla or berry (although flavoured vodkas seem to be having a renaissance), but naturally occurring flavour. From peas to apples, milk to grapes, raw materials and their impact on the profile of the liquid in the bottle was proving that bartenders were not just after neutrality at all, but also something with a clear and deliberate identity. 

However, in the two years since, while what a vodka tastes like (neutral or not) is still a considered factor when it comes to choosing what to pour behind the bar, the results of this year's Class Bar Report suggest that bartenders are also leaning towards another facet of a vodka’s makeup – texture. 

Grey Goose, known for its crisp and rounded texture, topped out as bestselling brand in UK bars, while one step behind was the notoriously buttery Absolut Elyx, followed by velvety Belvedere and silky Ketel One. When it came to unveiling the brand name-checked by bartenders as their favourite, there is little surprise that Ireland’s Boatyard Vodka – big on banana flavour and a creamy texture – came out top. 

“Texture plays a more significant role in vodka than other spirits when testing new vodkas or selecting vodkas for the bar,” says Massimiliano Bosio, co-founder of east London’s Without Papers. Sometimes less texture is preferable if lightness and freshness are the end goal, while more weight and viscosity might be important if it needs to stand up to other dominant textures in the glass or you want the vodka to be the star of the show. 

Bringing the bite 

Vodka has undergone a series of changes when it comes to style and expectation over the years. While neutrality and a lack of character were once part of its definition, refreshments of regulations across Europe and the US have slowly allowed distillers to explore a wider range of ingredients and production techniques to give their resulting spirit more nuance and complexity.  

Now, what kind of texture a vodka has can be determined by (but isn’t limited to) three key production choices: the raw material selected, what water is used for dilution, and filtration methods. 

Boatyard’s use of Kildare wheat in its vodka recipe plays a huge role in the creamy texture it has become famous for, while its new 26% abv V-52 vodka incorporates oats in order to bring viscosity in place of alcohol. Kirker Greer’s Ukiyo brand uses indica rice at its base, which gives it an almost sparkling silkiness, while Black Cow’s use of milk whey produces something luscious and creamy. 

Ukrainian brand Svitlo focuses on local corn to give it a soft, rounded mouthfeel. “Texture was extremely important when crafting Svitlo,” explains Brovko, who is the brand’s global brand advocate. “Part of that texture comes from the quality of the corn itself and the unique soil in the region,” he says. A layer of clay in the soil helps retain water during hot summers and keeps the earth warmer during winter, which allows the corn to become juicy and naturally rich in sugar. 

With most vodkas being distilled at high strength (around 95% abv), they require a much higher ratio of water than other spirits to reduce them down to bottling strength (a minimum of 37.5% abv in Europe). Which water a distiller uses will have a huge impact on the final liquid: soft water, for example, which is low in minerals, will create a crisper or lighter mouthfeel, while water with higher mineral content will bring weight and density to the palate. 

Filtration is often used to remove impurities and alter texture, with carbon being the industry standard, while some producers are experimenting with things like sand or quartz. It’s a tricky balancing act – something Braden Saunders knows all too well from crafting Doghouse’s Baller vodka, which is made from 100% wheat and is unfiltered. “Maintaining texture in an ostensibly flavourless product is quite a difficult thing to do,” he explains. While the wheat gives an inherently creamy mouthful, the distillation cuts preserve the higher viscosity compounds that help achieve that silky mouthfeel too. And while carbon filtering helps to achieve that cleanness often sought from vodka, it can also strip it of texture. 

Which vodka when? 

When to deploy a particular vodka based on its texture is something bartenders are considering too. 

“Mouthfeel can completely change how a cocktail drinks and evolves on the palate,” says Brovko. “Some become silkier, longer or more rounded, while others feel sharper and more direct. It can make a drink feel longer, chewier and more complex, and changes how guests experience flavour and balance.” 

If using vodkas made from wheat, corn or grapes – which often have a sweeter, silkier mouthfeel – you might want to reduce sweetness elsewhere in the cocktail, he explains. Alternatively, rye and potato vodkas tend to be more punchy and aggressive, so he suggests adjusting the proportions to keep balance in the overall cocktail. 

Flavour can also impact our perception of texture – something that’s becoming more of a conversation in vodka as brands lean away from neutrality. Menthol notes can simulate a cooling effect on the palate while sweetness can also suggest viscosity. It works the other way too, with texture impacting flavour – something Bosio sees play out in Without Papers’ Mar-Tea-Ni, a Vodka Martini infused with the flavours of afternoon tea, like Earl Grey and strawberry. “We use Boatyard vodka, which is rich and creamy. Its texture enhances the flavours of the other ingredients, even in small quantities, while still maintaining its prominent role in the drink.” 

For Martha May Markham, formerly of Swift and now head bartender at the new Nancy's bar in London Bridge, customer expectation as well as the method used to make the cocktail they’ve ordered can impact vodka selection. “Someone ordering a vodka mixer is after something crisp and easy,” she says, “as opposed to someone who’s ordering a Dirty Vodka Martini who might want a little more body.” 

Shaken versus stirred or built makes a difference too (shaken drinks can take more texture) as do the other ingredients being used and how they all balance together. For a category that still gets short shrift for being anything but interesting, there is plenty to say when it comes to choosing the right vodka for your next Cosmo, Martini or even a Voddy & Soda.