Hamish Smith lends a critical eye to Cato in Covent Garden, London.
London's most anticipated launch of the year so far is Cato in Covent Garden, the bar named after historical New York bartender Cato Alexander.
This is the new digs of ex-Soma and Nipperkin drinksmith Angelos Bafas but the maverick bartender isn't alone. Restaurateurs Aiste Bart and Andrew Taylor have been working on the site for three years and their head of drinks development manager, Yaw Asante, is in support too.
Cato - as many bars these days - is three spaces in one. Two cocktail bars and Cato's Study a room that doubles as a pop-up and masterclass space.
The first room you enter, though, may be the last. The drinks in The House Of Julep - all British spins on evergreen classics - are that good. Dig into the Juleps and Smashes, sure, but make sure you try the Mustard Sour, Apple + Gooseberry Daiquiri and the Rhubarb Paloma.
Downstairs at the Main Bar of Cato, things get more ambitious and conceptual - with the Synaesthesia menu built around matching flavours to colours, while all the ingredients are local to these Isles. Cato is one of London's great drinks makers, unfiltered.
17 Mercer St, London WC2H 9QJ
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