Cato, Angelos Bafas’ new multi-space Covent Garden bar in partnership with indie restaurant group Bart & Taylor, is set to open this Friday.
Aiste Bart and Andrew Taylor – the pair behind the group which operates nationwide restaurants Fern, Trickle, Adam & Eve and pub Mr Fox – took on the former private members club three years ago and have finally seen their plans come to fruition.
Taylor told CLASS during an exclusive, preview of the bar: “Out of all the projects we’ve done, this has been the hardest, the longest and the most financially challenging.”
Having signalled their intentions years before, Bafas, who recently left his permanent role at Nipperkin, was brought on board last year to launch Cato alongside Bart & Taylor’s drinks development manager, Yaw Asante.
The House of Julep
At the ground level of Cato is a New York City-inspired cocktail tavern, inspired by 1800s New York bartender Alexander Cato, a freedman who went on to become one of the city’s first self-made bartenders.
Known for his Mint Juleps, Cato pays homage with a list of eight Juleps and Smashes, made with mint propagated using the bar’s in-house growing system, at urban allotments and British partner farms.
Alongside the likes of the Champagne Mint Julep and Japanese Smash, the 30-cover House of Julep also comes with a list of spun classics, aimed to appeal to a wide audience – according to Bart: “giving the people what they want.”
The 12-strong list pays homage to classical, tavern-style drinks, while drawing on Bafas’ love for local ingredients – shown notably at Nipperkin – and Bart & Taylor’s support for British farms. “The drinks are easy, approachable, while using as many British ingredients as possible,” Bafas told CLASS.
The Apple & Gooseberry Daiquiri combines Takamaka, Apple Marigold Spirit, Capreolus Apple Eau de Vie and foraged gooseberries, while the Cheesecake Cover Club features Sipsmith gin and Sipsmith Sloe, wild strawberries and raspberries ‘jam’, sour cream and shortbread biscuits.
The Mustard Sour (pictured below) is made with Woodford Reserve bourbon and rye, English mustard vinaigrette, fortified yuzu juice and lemon balm.
Main Bar
If upstairs is more casual, with tavern-like décor, serving twists, wine, beer and bar food – think classics such as burgers, charcuterie and sandwiches, made with British ingredients – the basement of Cato is the a more luxurious lounge and boutique of cocktails, where Bafas and Asante stretch their legs creatively.
The menu takes its inspiration from synaesthesia – the bridging of senses – pivoting around the idea that colours evoke flavour, with 14 drinks sectioned by seven hues.
Chamomile & Sweet Clover in the Yellow chapter of the menu is structurally a Bee’s Knees. Alongside its two major ingredients, there’s English gin, Renais and house-made meadow vermouth.
From the White section is Sweet Woodruff + Cream, with Hendrick’s, woodruff, koji and butter cream, white liqueur and cultured cream.
Jalapeño and Shiso sees its headline green ingredients combined with Ramsbury vodka, green pea distillate, Schofield’s vermouth and gooseberry. It’s a Margarita in every aspect except its ingredients.
Elsewhere, there’s the more approachable Pink with Forced Rhubarb and Apple Blossom, from the Brown section there is Medlar and Mushroom and in Red is Red Dulse + Cherries.
Red Dulse + Cherries, Chamomile & Sweet Clover and Sweet Woodruff + Cream
Every ingredient that finds its way into a glass in Cato's Main Bar is British-grown or produced – with menu inserts detailing their provenance – while the techniques used to harness the produce are traditional, using, says Bafas, “racking, filters and time”.
Cato’s Study is the third space of the bar – a room that doubles as a laboratory and pop-up and masterclass space, featuring a 10-cover communal table and industry library.
Cato, located on 17 Mercer St, London WC2H 9QJ, is open seven days a week, until 1am.