Modern tipping is more democratic but less meritocratic - and I'm not sure that's progress, says Graffiti Spirits Group's John Ennis.
When I first started bartending, the real bonus wasn’t the money itself — it was what getting tipped meant. A tip felt like a reward for a job genuinely well done. It pushed a lot of us to raise our game. We honed our skills, we sharpened our service, and we treated guests like they were the reason we were there… because they were.
In many places this created a healthy competitiveness. Who got to work the busiest station? Who held the best section? It all came down to who was doing the most for the business and, in turn, themselves. Being “on point” meant bragging rights, high takings, and the satisfaction of knowing you’d earned every penny.
That competitiveness genuinely pushed the industry forward. We weren’t just asking: “how many guests can I serve?” but: “how do I outshine the next bartender in knowledge, drinks, and hospitality?” It felt like a craft worth mastering. And yes — we kept our own tips. We looked after the bar backs and support staff because they helped us earn more. I remember tipping out one bar back £80 one night because I never hit an 86 and took four grand. That was a flex — but it was also an honest reflection of effort.
So what’s my beef?
I feel that culture has disappeared, and with it, some of our ambition to be the best. Service charge has flattened everything. Tips have become democratic rather than merit-based, and too many people now get to hide in the shadows while one or two team members carry the shift.
At the same time, the markers of excellence have shifted. It’s no longer about the guest in front of you — it’s awards, Instagram, takeovers, prep days, “lab work,” and who’s got the next bit of snazzy kit. None of that is bad on its own, but I question who we’re doing it for. Because it doesn’t always feel like it’s for the guest anymore.
After reading Ben Reed’s piece, I found myself fired up about the bartending I miss — the version that was raw, competitive, guest-focused, and grounded in the idea that effort equals reward.
I’m not arguing against teamwork, fairness, or support. I’m saying that when service charge spreads the rewards equally, regardless of output, we risk losing the fire that used to push bartenders to be exceptional. Not everyone wants to graft at the same level — and that’s fine — but the ones who do deserve to feel the difference.
If we want the next generation to step up, maybe we need to bring back a system where the best shifts and the biggest payouts go to the people who genuinely earn them.
You don’t have to agree with me, but I hope it gets you talking.