Oli Dodd speaks to five gin aficionados about their favourites - the only condition, it can't be a London Dry.
Ok, it’s not exactly a bombshell that in the Class Report gin was revealed to be the bestselling spirit category in the UK’s best bars. But that said, the gin landscape isn’t as peachy as it was a few years ago.
After decades of decline, the 2010s saw celebration of the category go from voguish to mainstream to pretty banal. And with that fading glean, gin consumption in the UK has fallen – the IWSR reports year-on-year declines of 14% between 2022 and 2023 as trendy types drink more agave spirits and most people just drink less.
But with the results of the Class Report, it seems a more level-headed appreciation has taken hold, at least within the industry. The gin boom is dead, long live gin. That’s not to say that production is on the wane. Part of what inspired the category’s craft boom was how quickly and cheaply it can be made and, according to The Office for National Statistics, where there were 116 gin producers in the UK in 2010, today there are 820.
That avalanche of launches can’t all be world beaters and, in truth, many are so heavily flavoured and sweetened that they are only gins by self-determination. But despite all that movement, it seems that not much has really changed. The Class Report revealed that, in terms of volume, what’s hot in gin is generally what could be found on supermarket shelves 15 years ago. Of the top 10 brands, only two – Portobello Road and Boatyard – are independently owned, and only four – Roku, Hendrick’s, Plymouth and Monkey 47 – would be considered anything other than London Dry in style.
Surely these new-fangled gins can’t be all bad. We asked the people who know the category best for their favourite gins that are anything other than London Dry.
1 YANA KELLER, ATLAS, SINGAPORE
Procera Green Dot
Procera Green Dot, from Kenya, is made from a single juniper tree native to that area. It uses the berries, foliage and wood from the tree, all handpicked, and even the bottles are individually hand blown. The gin is complex in flavour, slightly herbaceous, earthy and even has a hint of umami. I love it in a Southside and definitely in a Dirty Martini. It’s a gin that embodies the very spirit and essence of what gin should be.
» Distributed by Axiom Brands
2 MICHELE MARIOTTI, GLENEAGLES, AUCHTERARDER
The Botanist Cask Rested Gin
I really enjoy barrel aged gins. In the past, some products on the market lacked the complexity of a well-aged product, but the advent of brands such as The Botanist really changed the game. The brand also has different age statements, allowing you to pick the level of wood to tailor it to the style of drink you want to make. The Botanist Cask Rested gin is a perfect blend of wood while still being quite dry. It bridges the gap between brown and clear spirits. Part of what I love is how it drastically changes personality based on the style of vermouth. With a dry vermouth, the dry and herbaceous elements really come to life, like it would in a Martini, while with sweet vermouth you would highlight the woody and oxidised notes, delivering an experience similar to a Rob Roy or Manhattan.
» Rémy Cointreau UK Distribution
3 NATASHA BAHRAMI, THE GIN GIRL/THE GIN ROOM, ST LOUIS, US
Bluecoat Gin
Bluecoat Gin from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, has been a trailblazer in American dry gin since 2006, but it’s still a go-to for me for a whole range of cocktails. It’s crisp, citrus pepper-forward and shines in a 50/50 Martini with an orange twist or summer G&T. Its complex finish of candied orange peel and pleasantly light cardamom notes work amazingly in a Clover Club cocktail. It’s a gorgeous gin inside and out, with an intricately designed, sleek blue bottle, and it’s also reasonably priced.
» Distributed by Casa Julia
4 GIORGIO BARGIANI, THE CONNAUGHT BAR, LONDON
Hepple Gin
I like how this gin blends tradition and innovation. Hepple Gin starts with a structure of London Dry but then adds other extracts and distillates that shine through, creating a full-bodied, complex and fresh gin. The use of green juniper and Douglas fi r make it brighter and refreshing, while lovage adds a touch of salinity. I very much admire Nick Strangeway and his knowledge about flavour and technique. Hepple is very good for Martinis, but it is the star of a Negroni.
» Available at The Whiskey Exchange
5 ELEONORA BIASON, THE EMORY, LONDON
Audemus Spirits
Umami Gin It has a combination of botanicals I’d never have imagined would work so well in a gin. Parmesan and capers give buttery and spiced notes to the gin, while bergamot is so aromatic and refreshing and balances the flavour to make a fabulous Martini. Audemus Spirits was created by a French owner who came from a cognac distillation background and started distilling in his living room using a vacuum still. The brand also has a Pink Pepper gin that is balanced with orange, honey, tonka beans and pink peppercorns. It is a standout in a Negroni.
» Available at Spirits Kiosk