Oli Dodd provides the narrative behind the bestselling mezcal brands in the UK's Best Bars.

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Last year, mezcal represented the ‘best of the rest’ – the most popular category behind the bar essentials of gin, tequila, vodka, rum and American whiskey – and while it still occupies a respectable second place in this under-tier, it’s been comfortably leapfrogged by scotch in the UK’s bars.

But, if mezcal fever is beginning to wane, it hasn’t yet shown in a drop in popularity of its most beloved classics. Joaquín Simó’s Naked & Famous continues to prove more popular in the UK’s best bars than both the Last Word and Paper Plane that inspired its creation. It fell four places in our classic cocktail ranking to 19th, a negative goal difference that is pushed back into the black by the Mezcal Margarita’s climb to 25th. And its coverage still impresses.

According to our poll, 95% of the UK’s best bars stock mezcal, 87% have two brands or more, and 82% have at least three bottles on their back bar. But while new brands regularly enter the UK market, in our top bars it’s the original that reigns uncontested. The now-Pernod-owned Del Maguey arrived on these shores 15 years ago and headed straight for the bars. In our poll, more than a quarter of bars name the brand as their bestseller and more than half place it in their top three. That’s more than the dominant Johnnie Walker in Scotch, Bacardi in rum or Hennessy in brandy and cognac. And with the brand also collecting the Bartenders’ Favourite accolade for the second year on the bounce, after all this time, the bond between Del Maguey and UK bartenders is still strong.

While there’s no movement at the top, there’s a drop off in market share from here, with brands tightly matched on volumes and shifting places from last year. Axiom Brands’ Mezcal Amarás heads the pack – just – after being found to be a bestseller in 9% of bars and a top three in 22%, largely thanks to its white-label Mezcal Verde range. The upmarket The Lost Explorer, meanwhile, leaps into third place, up from a sixth-place finish in last year’s report. The Proof Drinks-managed brand, which has recently released a tequila, has been among the more active in the trade with its trio of single variety mezcals. Despite its more luxury positioning, it was the bestseller in 8% of our bars and a top-three serve in 23%.

In fourth this year is Quiquiriqui. Another brand that was early to the UK market, it was founded by Melanie Symonds in 2013 and is distributed by Cask. Its espadin-led portfolio ran The Lost Explorer close – the bestseller in 7% of bars and a top-three mezcal in 22%. Ojo de Dios takes fifth place. Imported to the UK through Nightcap Brands, it has garnered fans in the industry alongside its pair of mezcals blended with coffee and hibiscus, as well as its more traditional joven espadin bottling.

In sixth is a new entry in the form of a familiar face. Siete Misterios was among our Bartenders’ Favourites in last year’s poll and that appreciation has transformed into sales. Michter’s sister brand was the house pour in 6% of our bars and among the supporting cast in 19%. In seventh place is Ilegal. Founded by John Rexer in 2006, the brand is now fully owned by Bacardi and, given its performance in these rankings, the multinational-owner effect hasn’t quite taken hold yet. It falls four places on last year’s ranking – a bestseller in 6% and top-three in 16%.

Pensador moves up one place to eighth, being among the top-three bestselling mezcals in 10% of bars. In the final two positions are two more brands backed by giants. The Campari-owned Montelobos and the Diageo-owned Casamigos, both of which have a limited following, proving it takes more than just spending power for mezcal brands to dominate in the UK’s best bars.