Reviewer Hamish Smith didn't realise something was missing from London's bar scene until a new venue waltzed in. 

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Few things, it’s always struck me, are as distinctive and culturally anchored as a drinking hole. The British pub, the Irish bar, the Mexican cantina, the American dive bar…. pulling up a seat in any of these is to drink in its country’s traditions.

If there was a written history of bars, the Japanese cocktail bar would certainly have its own chapter. It is where shaking became choreographed, where ice became art and classic cocktails went to finishing school. Japan somehow managed to become a spiritual home to something it imported. There are few bars globally that are not in the orbit of Japanese thinking. 

Stopping short of seeing the real thing in Ginza, Tokyo, there have been some good examples of Japanese bars in the UK, but not too many authentic independent cocktail bars. According to Stanislav Vadrna – something of a sage on these matters – the first could have been Hiroko, a Japanese restaurant opened in 1967 on Bond Street, which also had what was described as a “friendly bar”. I’m with its owner Akiko Kuzusaka – it’s never a given. Since then, Japanese-style bars have mainly been ritzy adjuncts to restaurants – think Zuma, Nobu, Shochu Lounge – but none that I have visited, anyway, had that feeling of pulling up to the wood in Ginza.

Not until Waltz opened its doors in Shoreditch this spring, where you sense straight away the authenticity that comes from being Japanese owned and run. You might well know the owner. Gento Torigata is formerly of Kwant in London, Jigger & Pony in Singapore, and perhaps most tellingly a bar in Ginza – Airelon.

I want to manage your expectations. This bar is low on show, the thematic sort, anyway. The concept is… cocktail bar. You drink there. But what you drink is all rather good. 

The drinks

When we arrive, the bar – a huge, continuous slice of oak sawn from a local fallen tree – is well attended. We wait by the high tables and stools around the perimeter, hands clasping one of Torigata’s icy Highballs, swaying to the jazz that gave rise to the bar’s name (Bill Evans’ Waltz for Debby).

It takes a hell of a Highball to impress me. Not because I’m some sort of authority on spirit-soda long drinks, but because I’ve never really taken to them. To me, it is to take something concentrated and generous and stretch it until it’s unrecognisably thin, austere, almost spirit-flavoured soda. Well, not here. Wakayama (£17) sees Suntory Chita whisky, baijiu, ripe banana and umeshu, and it’s round and deep, while still refreshing. Salty Dog (£16) with Daiyame shochu, Suze, yellow grapefruit soda and salt, is an elongated, herbal, sour. Clearly a lot of thought has gone into their preparation, not least the ice, dilution and temperature. I won’t do it justice here – for Torigata’s method, see Tyler Zielinksi’s piece on Highballs.

Besides, we’ve finished our openers and are now at the bar, which means a new set of drinks, distinct to that of the floor. Split into In Season and Evergreen sections, with the former inspired by Japan’s historic calendar, which separates a year into 72 micro seasons. The drinks here are stronger and more storied, as if they’re asking you to be seated. 

From the In Season page comes a cocktail that by this summer will be off the menu: Golden Beetroot & Radicchio (£17) – Altos Tequila Plata, agave, lime, radicchio foam – speaks of the late-spring season, with earth, grass and citric zippiness. 

Then from the Evergreen section, the Matcha Old Fashioned (£20) – Suntory Hibiki Harmony, Yame matcha and honey – once you acclimatise to the minty green colour, it’s a tasty fresh, tannic rendition. The Blue ’n Green (£18) – Altos Tequila Añejo, unripe banana, Sauternes 18 – is another mix of things you know at once are going to go together, and do.

When a bar is just a bar, there’s really nowhere to hide. The drinks have to be worthy of your full attention, the scrutiny bartenders place on the details – vessels, temperature, balance – has to be forensic. You have to believe they are practising a higher form of the craft – particularly at these prices. They are, and you do. Like Angel’s Share and Bar Goto in New York, Waltz feels every bit a proper export of the fabled Japanese cocktail bar. 

28 Scrutton Street, London EC2A 4RP

SCORES

Hospitality 10/10

Drinks 9/10

Atmosphere 9/10

Décor 8/10

Value 7/10

Total: 9/10