Clinton Cawood opens the history books to the page of the Paloma.
It’s a lamentable but inescapable fact that there are more questionable Margaritas out there than good ones. While tequila’s flagship cocktail can be a sublime thing, it often isn’t. The Paloma, on the other hand, even in its most standard of configurations, is invariably a delight.
Drinkers in Mexico have known this for some time, combining tequila with grapefruit soda Squirt for decades. The rest of the world has begun to catch on in recent years, with the number of available grapefruit mixer options rising proportionately.
The Spanish word for ‘dove’, the Paloma has been around since the 1950s. There’s little definitive information about its origins, leading to a few competing theories but little else. In recent times, this deceptively simple drink has proven to be highly adaptable, scrubbing up nicely on upmarket cocktail lists while providing inspiration for all manner of riffs.
For a premium take that doesn’t stray too far from the original, consider the exceptional example at Side Hustle at Nomad London, opting for a touch of mezcal in addition to the tequila base.
There’s grapefruit soda here, but less than usual, bolstered by fresh grapefruit juice and agave syrup. A pink peppercorn salt rim plays on the pepperiness in the tequila.
“Simple cocktails give you the chance to concentrate on the ingredients deeply, and choose the best of each for the perfect combination,” says assistant bar director Davide Segat. Showcasing the drink’s more experimental side is the Paloma Café at London’s Viajante 87, bringing elements such as coffee liqueur and Cynar into play. “Coffee and grapefruit may sound like an unusual pairing, but they actually mix incredibly well in the drink, bringing bright, bitter and zesty notes of grapefruit and an unexpected depth of coffee,” says beverage director Pietro Collina.
“With the Paloma there’s a lot of room for experimentation and highlighting different flavour profiles, which adds room for creativity and individuality – one of the reasons it’s so popular.”
Then there’s the Frosè Paloma from London’s Funkidory, almost as beguilingly simple as the original, with near-equal parts of tequila, rosé wine and pink grapefruit juice, but served as a slushie.
It emerged, according to bar co-owner Sergio Leanza, during Covid, as a takeaway drink. “After lockdown, we kept it on the menu and, to this day, no matter the weather, it remains a bestseller,” he says. “It off ers an alternative while drawing attention to the original, which we proudly serve upon request.”
PALOMA (AVAILABLE AT SIDE HUSTLE AT NOMAD LONDON)
• 45ml Altos Plata tequila
• 15ml Vida mezcal
• 30ml grapefruit juice
• 20ml lime juice
• 15ml agave
• 1 grapefruit twist
• Top: grapefruit soda
Glass: Highball
Garnish: Grapefruit wheel Ice: Cubed
Method: Add twist and all other ingredients into shaker and shake. Add salt and pink peppercorn rim and top with grapefruit soda.