In the first of a new series on lesser-known classics from around the world, Sorrel Moseley-Williams picks three of her favourites from South America.

---

But these are the region’s export cocktails – the drinks that through myriad reasons have found traction overseas. The pantry of South America has far more to explore. Here are the stories behind three locally-loved classics that could – and perhaps should – be more globally recognised.

Rabo de Galo

Bearing cachaça, Rabo de Galo – which translates as Tail of the Cock – was one of the International Bartenders Association’s 2023 additions. After many years of having been dismissed as the ‘drunk’s drink’, Brazilians are learning to appreciate it, according to Caio Carvalhaes, head bartender and creative director at Tan Tan in São Paulo.

“A classic created in the 1950s when Cinzano was first imported into Brazil, it was originally a Manhattan twist made with cachaça and served without ice,” says Carvalhaes.

“Brazilians have long been prejudiced toward this cocktail, which was commonly ordered in botecos (casual bars) for 50 cents. And although it’s never been popular in cocktail bars, thanks to the cachaça revival – plus the addition of Cynar, ice and an orange twist – it has become a new classic and Brazilians appreciate its refreshing flavour.”

At The Liquor Store, Tan Tan’s sister bar, the team makes it easier on the palate, macerating pineapple with Cynar. A great spot to try an unadulterated classic is at Rosewood Hotel’s tribute bar, Rabo Di Galo.

Recipe: Pineapple Rabo de Galo

• 50ml cachaça branca

• 20ml vermouth rosso

• 15ml Cynar & pineapple (sub recipe)*

*Cynar & pineapple

• 900ml cynar

• 450g pineapple

• 1 hour sous vide at 63ºC

---

Clarito

In Argentina, the first liquid thought of is Fernandito (Fernet & Soda), although its image – served in a double Old Fashioned glass – isn’t necessarily how Argentinians tend to quaff it these days. The popular, if trashy way, is by cutting a plastic cola bottle in half and drinking out of it. But away from this very Argentinian ritual, there is another bone fide classic.

In 2007, Buenos Aires veteran bartender Fede Cuco of Verne Club began a campaign to bring back the Clarito, an emblematic cocktail created by Argentina’s original star bartender Santiago ‘Pichín’ Policastro, who shunned European and American classics for homegrown concoctions.

“When the Martini came to South America, it was automatically called San Martín,” says Cuco. “Bartenders started to modify it, creating a sweet Martini, but Pichín wanted to make an Argentinian version, originally nine parts gin, one part vermouth, bearing a ‘crown’ made from lemon and sugar like a Daiquiri [lost over time].

“In Pichin’s 1955 book, Tragos Mágicos (Magical Drinks, a tome compiling more than 400 signature cocktails), he wrote that he created the Clarito in 1935 as his response to the Daiquiris, Manhattans and famous foreign drinks. If you look at lists back then, you’ll see Clarito or Vodka Clarito – not Martinis.”

A staunch advocate for the legendary bartender and educator, Cuco says the Clarito remains relevant because Pichín is still relevant. “We started the campaign out of national pride because every Buenos Aires bar had gin and vermouth. And so began a Pichín revival.”

You can order it two ways. “I always recount this story and ask guests, ‘would you like a modern one or a 1935 version?’” he says. “If they ask for the latter, I paint the edge with lemon and sugar – and it looks beautiful. If they want a contemporary Clarito, it’s like a dry gin Martini with a lemon twist, and my trick is to put two or three lemon peel twists in the mixing glass.”

Recipe: Clarito 1935

• 90ml London Dry gin, taken out of the freezer

• 10ml of dry vermouth, taken out of the fridge

• A good twist of lemon and the glass edge frosted with sugar as it was in 1935

---

El Capitán

Known for its Pisco, two renowned Peruvian classics are the Sour and the Chilcano, but aficionados should look past these for a century-old drink also made with the grape brandy, says Diego Macedo, co-owner of Lima’s Sastrería Martínez. 

“El Capitán’s past is chequered, as it was first referred to at Bar Morris in Lima in 1924 but, known as 20 Centavos (20 Cents) at the time, it became popular in the holy Puno region,” says Macedo. “Revered by the military (and served by bartenders with the phrase ‘For you, my captain’, it was made with caña (sugarcane juice spirits) and vermouth but, post World War I, imports became scarce, and in a bid to improve the flavour of poor-quality national vermouth that bartenders had to use, they replaced caña with Pisco.”

While it hasn’t yet undergone a revival like the Chilcano, first-time El Capitán drinkers love it. “Different from Manhattan, because of the measures, the Pisco and olive garnish,” he says. “At Sastrería, we play around with vermouth blends to give balance and protagonism to the pisco, also adding orange bitters. It really is a fantastic apértif.” 

Recipe: El Capitan

 • 45ml pisco negra criolla

• 45ml blend of vermouths

• 2 dashes of orange Angostura

• Garnish: olives